It’s here it’s here it’s finally here! Today is cast on day for our Fire Opal Tee KAL.
Missed the announcement? Get the full story here. There is still time to join in on the fun!
This KAL will be broken into 4 parts and you’ll have 2 weeks for each part. Naturally you are more than welcome to work ahead and finish this thing in a week! Otherwise the pace I’ve established is a great way to keep working on this tee without going nuts and feeling super overwhelmed.
So what do we have here?! I can understand your confusion since this is quite obviously a one color tee. Not any more!
I wanted to stash bust this sweater but only had about 700 yards of grey, so in order to make the grey go as far as I could I decided to do a dip dyed colorblocking look with the mauve color. So I cast on with my contrasting color and knit in that color for about half the body before switching to my main color. I’ll knit the rest of my sweater in the main color. I think this will end up looking awesome! Fingers crossed!
Part 1 Goal: Work up 2/3rds of the body of your tee.
As written this is a cropped tee, hitting only 12″ long after the armholes, so if you’d like to add length be sure to take that into account. I’m adding 2″ of length here, so for me my goal was to have just over 9″ of sweater knit up for Part 1.
I wanted there to be a method to the madness of my dip dying, so I broke my sweater up into 3rds – bottom 3rd will be my CC, and the top two 3rds will be in my MC, so I knit about 7″ of the bottom of the sweater in my CC.
Another thing to watch out for is establishing where your dropped stitches will be. It is VERY important none of your dropped stitches get incorporated into your cables accidentally as you knit, because that will be pretty fatal to the look of your sweater if unchecked.
Did I just drop fatal into a blog post about knitting? I did! It’s just that important!
Most cables are anchored by purling, or some other stitch to help define them. These cables will eventually be defined by dropped stitches, but while you are knitting it looks like nothing.
Here I’ve drawn just to the right of each line of dropped stitches. You can follow that line of stitches from the top of the work to the bottom – just to the left of each highlighted line above – and see that they go on either side of the cables.
I hate slipping markers and feel confident in my ability to double check each dropped stitch row every time I make a cable to make sure I’m counting off my cables correctly, but if you don’t feel confident you should mark your dropped stitches. Do this in the YO row after your rib and before you start the cable pattern. As written the line reads:
Next Rnd: Remove m, yo, PM for new beg of rnd, k2tog, k7, *yo, k2tog, k7; rep from * to last st, k1.
If you’d like to mark your dropped stitches, these dropped stitch rows will be above the yarn overs established in this round, and you can place a marker before these dropped stitches, so you’ll be dropping the stitch AFTER each new marker.
If Placing Dropped Stitch Markers, Next Rnd: Remove m, yo, PM for new beg of rnd (make this m a different color so you can keep track of your rnds), k2tog, k7, *pm, yo, k2tog, k7; rep from * to last st, k1.
You can also always start with these markers and as you start feeling more comfortable remove them.
Another handy resource is this tip from Eunny Jang and Interweave for counting your rows while cabling. If you’re like me you wing this every time and make your best guess. With this awesome pic you can do that no longer! Easy right? I don’t know why I didn’t look this up before!
Now I’m sure you are overly prepared for Part 1 of our Fire Opal Tee KAL! I’ll be back with your progress pics and our next step in two weeks – on April 14th. Be sure to share your pics and progress stories on our Fire Opal Tee Ravelry Group Forum! Happy knitting!